Travel Guide to Isle of Lewis, Scotland
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The Isle of Lewis is the largest and most populated island in the Outer Hebrides. The first time I got off the ferry in Stornoway, the largest town on Lewis, it seemed busy and I was happy to continue on to Harris.
Having since explored much more of the island I now realise that my first impressions were wrong.
It might be busy around Stornoway but the rest of the island of Lewis is amazing. It has fantastic beaches, hikes and historic sites. Today it is one of my favourite Scottish islands.
In this guide I share what I have learnt over several trips. It covers everything you need to know to plan a visit such as how to get to Lewis, the things to do, restaurants, where to stay and much more.
Is It Isle of Lewis or Lewis Island?
People describe Isle of Lewis in so many different ways – Lewis island, island of Lewis, Lewis isle or isles of Lewis.
The official name is Isle of Lewis but the shorter version of Lewis is also often used. Stick two either of these two.
Is the Isle of Lewis Worth Visiting?
Yes, the Isle of Lewis is definitely worth visiting. What makes the island special is that there are more things to do on the Isle of Lewis than any of the other islands in the Outer Hebrides.
The Isle of Lewis beaches are fantastic and the island has several historic sites such as the Callanish Stones and the Uig Chessmen (which are on display at Museum nan Eilean).
People sometimes worry about getting bored if renting a cottage for a week. On Lewis you don’t need to worry since there is plenty to keep you entertained for a week.
Families with young children will appreciate the playgrounds such as Eoropie Dunes Park by Eoropie beach and the indoor swimming pools at Lewis Sport Centre in Stornoway.
Isle of Lewis or Isle of Harris – Which Island Should I Stay On?
Lewis is the destination to pick for anyone wanting a variety of things to do as well as the most options when it comes to restaurants and accommodation. Although you hear about the beaches on Harris, don’t underestimate how pretty Lewis is.
The scenery and beaches on Lewis are underrated. Luskentyre on Isle of Harris might be your typical Western Isles beach with white sand and turquoise water. However, my favourite beach in the Outer Hebrides is Uig beach on Lewis.
Harris is a great destination for pretty scenery, walks and to just get away from it all. However, it is a relatively small island and there are no historic sites or museums to speak of.
Lewis on the other hand has many historic sites such as the Callanish stones, the Uig chessmen, the iron age house at Bosta and the blackhouses at Gearrannan.
One thing to remember is that regardless of which island you choose you can easily drive between Isle of Lewis and Harris. Visit both islands and decide for yourself which one you prefer.
What to See on Lewis
One of the things that sets Lewis apart from the other islands in the Outer Hebrides is how much there is to see and do. In addition to amazing scenery there are many interesting historic sites and museums.
Below are the top 5 things to do, for more ideas read my post on things to do on Lewis.
Top 5 Things to Do on the Isle of Lewis
1. Callanish Stones
The 5,000-year-old Callanish stones pre-date Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. Legend says the stones are giants who were turned to stone for not converting to Christianity.
The visitor’s centre is open Monday to Saturday, 9 am to 4:30 pm, but you can explore the stones anytime. Try to arrive early or late when you might have the stones to yourself.
Don’t miss the Callanish standing stones 2 and 3 which are located close by. They are much smaller than the main stones but indicate how important this site might once have been.
Please note that the visitor centre is closed until 2025 for a redevelopment. You can still see the stone and the sight is still worth visiting!
2. Uig Chessmen
Museum nan Eilean behind Lews Castle in Stornoway showcases the history and life on Lewis. The highlight is the Uig chessmen, thought to be from Viking area. These intricately carved chess pieces are made from walrus tusk.
Today, most of the chessmen are on display in London at the British Museum and in Edinburgh at Museum of Scotland. A few pieces are on loan to the museum in Stornoway until 2026.
3. Explore the Beaches
Compared to the other islands in the Outer Hebrides the beaches on Lewis have more varied scenery. They have dramatic cliffs, crashing waves, and wide sandy bays at low tide.
Since Lewis is the largest island it benefits from more beaches than any of the islands further south.
One of the best things to do on Lewis is beach hopping. Three beaches not to miss are:
Visit at least one of the lesser-known beaches on the west coast as well.
You can find all the details you need in my guide to the best beaches on Lewis.
4. Mangersta Sea Stacks
The Mangersta sea stacks are like a smaller version of Australia’s Twelve Apostles.
They are located further along the road from Mangersta village. There are no signs along the road so park at the what3word location of slippery.stopwatch.hypnotist.
The sea stacks are not visible from the road and you will need to walk out onto the headland to see them.
5.Boat Trip to a Remote Island
From Lewis you can do day trips to St Kilda or half day trips to the Shiants islands.
St Kilda is a UNESCO site known for its bird life and the history of the villagers who once lived here. It is a 3-hour boat ride one way and the sea can be rough. This trip is for people who don’t easily get seasick.
The Shiants islands are not as far out to sea and are perfect for wildlife watching. On a trip you are nearly guaranteed to spot seals.
From May to August puffins nest here. However, you can only view them from the boat. For up-close views of puffins take a trip to Isle of Mingulay, an island south of Vatersay.
Read more about what to do on Lewis in my guide to the top Lewis attractions
Isle of Lewis Weather – What is the Best Time to Visit Lewis?
The best time to visit the Isle of Lewis is from April to September. Average summer temperatures are only about 15 degrees Celsius but can be as high as mid-20s. You are most likely to get warm weather in July and August.
There are two reasons why May and early June is my favourite time. The first is that despite the average temperature only being 12-14 degrees Celsius you are more likely to have sunshine.
The second reason is that it is before the school summer holidays in both the UK and Europe and therefore it is quieter.
In September and early October temperatures drop to around 9 degrees Celsius on average. The weather is crisp and clear and the crowds are gone. This is another excellent time to travel around Harris and Lewis.
Between late October and March is considered winter and off season. Many places close or have significantly reduced opening hours. Storms can impact both your stay and travel to and from Lewis.
On a positive note it is much easier to book accommodation and you can often find good deals.
Insider tip: The weather on the Isle of Lewis is incredibly changeable. It is not unusual for one part of the island to have blue sky and on the other it is raining.
Rather than looking at the weather forecast look at the sky to see where it seems to be lighter and breaking up. Have a list of things to do for the week and pick each day’s activity based on where the weather looks the nicest.
Are There Midges on Lewis?
Yes, there are midges on Lewis between mid-May and early September. One good thing is midges don’t like wind and there is nearly always a breeze on Lewis.
In general, the midges are much less of a nuisance on Lewis than they are on the mainland. Having said that, they have stopped me sitting outside on calm July evenings but have never been a problem during the day.
Are There Ticks on Lewis?
In recent years ticks have become more of a problem all over Scotland and Lewis is no exception.
On Lewis there are a lot of ticks near Tiumpan head lighthouse. Areas such as the mountains around Uig or close to the Butt of Lewis there are fewer ticks but this of course can change.
After a hike check your body for ticks. Tucking your trousers inside your socks helps to keep ticks out and wearing light coloured clothes makes them easier to spot.
It is worth purchasing a tick remover tool. They are cheap to buy, don’t take up much room and makes removing them much easier.
How to Get to Lewis
There are two ways of getting to Lewis, by ferry or by plane. Both the ferry terminal and airport are in Stornoway, the largest town on the island.
There is no train or bridge to Lewis.
Read my post on how to get to Lewis for more detailed information than the overview provided below
Ferry to Stornoway
Calmac operate ferries to Stornoway from Ullapool on the mainland. Ullapool is a 1.5-hour drive north of Inverness.
During the summer the ferry to Stornoway departs twice a day, once in the morning and once in the afternoon. The journey takes 2 hours and 45 minutes and the sea can be rough.
The ferry operating on this route is new and has an observation deck from which you can often spot dolphins, puffins, and whales.
Given a large ferry operates this route it is fairly easy to book tickets. Having said that, book your tickets at least a few months in advance. Tickets for the summer season are released at the end of January.
Generally, the route to Lewis is one of the more reliable Outer Hebrides ferry routes. However, you should plan at least one extra day between the ferry and your flight home. In the winter you might want to consider more than one day.
There are plenty of things to do in Nairn and Inverness for a couple of days at the end of your trip.
Flying to Stornoway
Flights to Lewis are operated by Loganair. They are expensive but it is the quickest way to Lewis.
A couple of times a day flights arrive from Inverness, Glasgow and Edinburgh. Anyone coming from other UK destinations or abroad can buy through tickets which involves a stop at one of these airports.
How to Get to Lewis by Public Transport
Both the airport and the ferry terminal are served by public transport.
The airport is 5.5 km outside Stornoway and buses are timed to meet the flights. If you are taking the ferry, buses run from Inverness to Ullapool. On arrival, the ferry terminal is located in the centre of Stornoway.
How to Travel Around
Do You Need a Car on the Isle of Lewis?
Yes, you need a car on the Isle of Lewis. If based in Stornoway it is possible to get around using buses but timetables are limited. You will see much more and have a lot more freedom with a car.
You can bring a car on the ferry or rent one in Stornoway. However, prices and choice of car is better on the mainland.
Book your car hire with Rental Cars
What Are the Roads Like?
The A roads up to Port of Ness and down towards Harris are well-maintained two-lane roads.
The B roads, such as the one out to Uig and Great Berneray, are largely single lane but with plenty of passing places.
Drive at the speed you feel comfortable and you will have no problems. Remember, its a speed limit, not a target.
Don’t let the single lane roads put you off renting a car!
How to Get Around Lewis by Public Transport
I strongly recommend hiring a car for your trip but you can travel around Lewis by bus.
Stornoway is the place to base yourself if you will be using public transport. Taking the bus means long walks to the more remote beaches and sites. It also requires a lot of pre-planning.
You can find all the bus timetables for journeys around Lewis on the local government website.
Where to Stay on Lewis
The first decision to make is whether you want to rent a self-catering cottage, stay in a hotel or stay in a guest house.
If you are staying for a week, rent a cottage. Location is one reason to rent a cottage since some are in pretty and remote spots. The other reason is that you will want the ability to self-cater because there are so few restaurants. Cottages are normally rented for a week, Saturday to Saturday.
If you are doing a road trip stay in guest houses rather than hotels. Guest houses and B&Bs have more modern rooms and a better location than most of the hotels on the island.
What Area of Lewis to Stay and Recommended Accommodation?
Uig: With the pettiest beaches and some of the best walks on the island, this is a great place to base yourself. This is my favourite part of Lewis.
There are many self-catering cottages in the area. The most popular can book out 18-24 months in advance so you have to plan early to stay here!
- Uig Sands Rooms – the views out over Uig Sands are fantastic and they allow for shorter stays. Rooms have self-catering facilities which is an added benefit given the limited number of restaurants in the area around Uig
- SEACroft B&B – close by at Aird Uig this B&B has ‘standard’ rooms as well as self-catering pods with fantastic views out to sea
- Uig Bay Cottage – a self-catering cottage for two people with great views over Uig bay and the Uig mountains. One-week rentals start on Fridays.
Port of Ness: a reasonable sized village north on Lewis. It has beautiful beaches close by, an interesting lighthouse and several cafes. The only downside to being here is that it is a long drive to any of the sites further south, especially Harris.
- Two Seas Hebrides – a luxurious self-catering cottage with a fire and sea views. It is close to Europie beach. It sleeps 10 people so is great for larger groups
- Park House – with a minimum stay of 5 nights this clean and tidy self-catering cottage is a highly rated budget option in the area
Callanish: Geographically it is a great location in the middle of all the main sites on Lewis. It also ticks the box of being rural. The only thing missing is a great beach, but there are plenty a short drive away.
- 21 Callanish Luxury Pod – with a minimum 3 nights stay it is the perfect option for people on a road trip wanting the ability to self-cater
- Tigh Bhisa Blackhouse – a restored blackhouse with a log burner and a good selection of books and films. It is self-catering and although there is no minimum stay, a week costs nearly the same as shorter stays
Crobost: Being on the eastern side of Lewis the landscape is rocky and there are few cafes and restaurants in the area. It is quiet and rural in a good geographical location for exploring both Lewis and Harris.
- 8B Calbost – with a minimum 4 night stay it is perfect for anyone looking for as cosy and remote cottage with beautiful views
- Grey Goose Cottage – a self-catering cottage in a quiet location perfect for exploring the rest of Lewis
Stornoway: Unless you are staying at Lews Castle or travelling by public transport there is no reason to stay in Stornoway. The hotels in Stornoway are fine for a night before the ferry or a flight but they can be surprisingly noisy at night.
- Lews Castle – what can be more Scottish than staying in a castle! The rooms are modern and there is large car park outside. Being a short walk from the centre of Stornoway the rooms are quiet
- Broad Bay House – is the best Guest house close to Stornoway. It is not located in the centre so its best if you have a car. It has lovely views out to sea and modern facilities
How Long to Stay?
There is enough attractions on Lewis to spend a week. During a week’s stay you will also likely have a couple of days with sunshine. The landscape and beaches completely change when the sun shines.
Anyone doing a road trip should aim for at least two full days on Lewis. Start off with the Callanish stones, Uig Sands and Mangersta sea stacks. On the second day explore one of the museums and drive up to the Butt of Lewis, or do a trip to the Shiants.
Restaurants and Supermarkets
Supermarkets
Stornoway has excellent supermarkets. Right in front of the ferry terminal is a large Tesco. Everybody goes to this supermarket after arriving on the ferry so the parking area is often full. If that is the case, rather than waiting, drive to the Co-op on MacAulay Road. It is larger than Tesco.
Plan ahead and stock up on what you need on arrival. Outside of Stornoway there are small supermarkets in Uig, Borve and Port Ness. All of these have a very limited selection of goods.
Best Restaurants and Cafes
There are not many cafes and restaurants outside Stornoway. It can be difficult to be in the right place at the right time for lunch so a packed lunch is often the easiest option.
Many of the best cafes are at community centres. They serve delicious homemade cakes and coffee. Make sure you stop by at least one, it is a great way to support the local community!
Cafes
The Edge: After trying to spot eagles at Aird Uig, stop by The Edge Café for coffee and cake. There are a couple of pods in the garden so you can sit outside regardless of the weather.
Opening hours are 11 am to 4:15 pm in the summer except Friday and Saturday when it is closed. It is closed during the winter months. The listed evening opening time, 6:15-6:30 pm, represents a single dinner seating. Advance reservations are required for dinner.
Comunn Eachdraidh Nis: The café has a wide range of lunch options and homemade cakes. But what makes it worth the drive up to Port of Ness is the museum next door.
The café is open all year around except Sundays. From April to October, it is open 10 am to 4.30 pm. From November to March, it is open 11 am to 4 pm with the last order for hot food being 2.30 pm.
It often gets busy so for larger groups reserve a table in advance.
Uig Community Centre Café: Come here for the homemade cakes and museum next door. In addition to cakes, they serve simple lunches such as soup and toasties.
The café is open from April to October. Opening hours vary. Last time I tried to visit it was closed because the owners were out collecting their sheep!
Restaurants
Uig Sands Restaurant: the view over Uig Sands is just as amazing as the food. Don’t miss their smoked salmon.
Be sure to reserve on their website well in advance, it books out quickly. The restaurant opens for dinner at 4 pm. If you book an early table you have a high chance of a window seat with a great view.
Harbour Kitchen: A high end seafood restaurant in Stornoway.
The restaurant is only open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday from 5 pm to 9 pm. Bookings are essential. Reserve through dishcult or contact them on facebook.
What to Pack
Bring comfortable walking shoes and clothes that are quick drying. It will often be windy with a bit of rain. The most useful type of clothing is hiking gear, not many people wear jeans or smart clothes outside of Stornoway.
Another good tip is to wear layers. The weather will probably be colder than you think so bring a fleece. I normally also bring a thin down jacket.
And always bring waterproof clothing. Gore-Tex jackets are both wind and waterproof so solve both those problems.
Temperatures are rarely above 20 degrees, even in the middle of the summer, so you are unlikely to need summer clothes.
FAQ on the Isle of Lewis
What is the Currency and How to Get Cash on Lewis?
Scotland uses pounds Sterling, the same as the rest of the UK.
Most places on Lewis you can pay by card but it is useful to have cash for smaller purchases. Some smaller shops and cafes require cash payments.
Outside of Stornoway there are few ATMs. Don’t plan to get cash on the island unless you are staying in Stornoway. It is better to bring it with you.
Should I Tip?
In Scotland in general tipping is not expected but it is appreciated. At cafes a tip is not expected. In restaurants with table service add 10%. If you are not happy with the service or the food, it is acceptable not to tip.
What is the Isle of Lewis Known For?
The Isle of Lewis is known for its historic sites, such as the Callanish Stones, the Uig Chessmen, pretty scenery with white sandy beaches, such as Uig Sands, and its crofting culture.
What is the Main Town on the Isle of Lewis?
The main town on the Isle of Lewis is Stornoway. It has a population of around 6,000 and it is where you will find the airport and ferry terminal.
What Language Do They Speak on the Isle of Lewis?
Everybody on Lewis speaks English but nearly 60% of the population also speak Gaelic.
Final Thoughts on the Isle of Lewis
First timers might head straight for the better-known beaches on Harris. However, Lewis’ beaches, hikes and historic sites are underrated.
Leave Stornoway and the rest of the island has the same beautiful and windswept scenery you find on the other Outer Hebrides islands. The difference with Lewis is it has much more to do.
Anyone wondering whether they will be bored staying in the Outer Hebrides for a week should pick the Isle of Lewis – you won’t be disappointed.
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